My Jomolhari to Laya Rare Air trek was one of the most interesting walks that I’ve done.
Bhutan had been lingering on my “must go hiking there” list for much too long. The enticing snow-covered peaks in an advert from Rare Air shifted it to “I’ll go there this year”. And so I did, albeit thwarted for a few years by Covid.
Bhutan was the fascinating destination that I had expected. Its colourful Buddhist heritage permeated everything, be it houses, temples or landscape. Friendly people—no pestering pencil or spoon sellers. Scenery was superb from towering mountains, plummeting waterfalls in the valleys opposite, lush forests and even the bleak landscape above the tree line. Interesting bridges too.
Everything on the trek ran smoothly, even the occasional to-be-expected hiccoughs ran smoothly as they were quickly resolved by the guides. Although we never really found out why the horses were late arriving at camp one day—some chairs were borrowed from another group and we sat having cups of tea, no problems at all.
The guides looked after us well, were always helpful, and a source of knowledge on the local history, especially on the drive from the end of the trek to Paro. Those days were most enjoyable even for a non-culture vulture like me, with the right mixture of sitting in the car and stretching one’s legs to either a visit to a monument or do a short walk. The staff were always cheery, even when giving us a cup of tea and bowl of hot water at 6:30 in the morning.
Thank you for a most enjoyable trip. Many, many photos, some of which made it to my New Year’s card!
Bhutan was a wonderful combination of nature and culture. I did a walking tour through varied landscapes. I loved the endless forested mountains and raging rivers. Taking in village life or a nomadic yak herder settlement. Seeing temples, chortens and prayer flags that punctuate the landscape. Highlights came in the unexpected: joining monks at a temple for the morning chants; walking through forests blooming with rhododendrons of pink and red; the chance happening of a ceremony at the Punakha temple with monks in their colourful regalia, and the welcome song and dance in a small weaving village in the east. Rare Air made the trip easy. From the packing list and visa to the end-to-end service in country. The guides were very thoughtful and attentive and went out of their way to accommodate us. The driver was extremely safe on the mountainous roads.
I travelled to Bhutan in 2020 with Karen Haranis. The trip was exceptionally well-organised and different from any tours I have been on previously, largely because of Karen’s intimate knowledge and love of the country and her special relationships with her guides.
We travelled in winter and it was certainly very cold, but the air was crisp and clear and we had spectacular views of the snow-topped Himalayas throughout our trip. We caught our first view of the mountains as we flew into the capital, Thimphu. This was an inspiring start to our trip, especially as accompanied by traditional Bhutanese music played in the aircraft as we approached.
The airport itself is unlike any other, displaying the traditional architecture and art of Bhutan. The houses in Bhutan are also built in the traditional manner and richly decorated with colourful paintings. There are none of the high-rise apartments and hotels that you find in other Asian capitals and traffic is minimal. It’s quiet, the people are beautiful and friendly. From the moment you start to descend into Thimphu, it all feels different and exciting.
We were greeted by our guides at the airport and from the start they took exceptional care to make sure all our needs were met. Dressed in their national costume, they were proud to show us their beautiful country and have great knowledge of all aspects of the culture and history of Bhutan. They led us to temples and monasteries as well as on walks through the countryside. They were experienced and helpful, committed to making our trip special. They also displayed a great sense of humour and mischief, which added to our enjoyment.
Another plus is that almost everyone in Bhutan has learned English at school, so it’s easy to communicate with people, and they are happy to talk. It makes negotiating to buy the lovely handcrafts, such as woven goods, easy.
I would not hesitate to recommend travel with Karen and would readily return to Bhutan at any time.
Bhutan is a unique destination, from the soaring Himalayan peaks to the deep spirituality that permeates every aspect of life in this Buddhist kingdom. The hiking in the rhododendron forests is spectacular and many of the scenic hikes will lead you to a temple or monastery where the monks welcome visitors. Our local guides and driver were fantastic, so knowledgeable and caring and always on hand to assist if needed.
A variety of accommodation including farmstays provided an opportunity to meet local communities, enjoy home cooked meals and purchase locally made handcrafts.
The trip was well planned and organised by Karen who works closely with the local guides to ensure a wonderful trip, with everlasting memories of this unique country.
A joy to travel to the Land of the Thunder Dragon, the Kingdom of Bhutan, where I experienced clear blue skies over majestic snow-capped mountains, gazed upon fast flowing rivers, hiked through a quiet forest of rhododendrons in parts covered in snow. Crossed by minibus, the snow covered Dochu La at 3100 metres, a mountain pass on the road from Thimphu to Punakha. Connected to the culture through our excellent guides Namygel and Tashi, both proficient in English and willing and able to share their understanding of the country, religion and its people. Throughout, supported and encouraged by Namgyel and Tashi, patient and kind. Thanks to them I achieved the demanding hike through the rhododendron forest and our last hike to the wondrous Taktsang Monastery (aka Tigers Nest) perched high on the cliff side of the Upper Paro Valley, considered one of the most sacred sites in the country, a venerated place of pilgrimage. In the pic I've attached you can just see the Monastery in the background.
Rare Air Himalayan Travel expertly led by Karen, caring and experienced, who is passionate about Bhutan and its people. She communicated before and during the trip to ensure everyone was well informed.
Bhutan is special. Come and feel it for yourself.
There were too many favourite moments, awesome views, and wondrous and breathtaking experiences, that it is hard to condense them down to a single favourite. Short of the obvious, such as being awestruck by the Dochu La, the first close up view of Tiger’s Nest, the landing approach and take-off to and from Paro Airport, the mystery and omnipresence of Buddhism, just to name a few, I decided to boil my experiences down to something different, a small excursion that I had solo with our wonderful guide Namgyel Dorji.
After our late return from the Tiger’s Nest Walk on our last day, I was the only one interested in visiting the Museum above the Paro Dzong. Being outnumbered was no obstacle to Namgyel who, without hesitation, said, he would take me there. So, after picking up his private car, he took me up to the watch tower where (in a nearby building due to earthquake damage in 2011) the museum’s collection was housed. After leaving his phone on the charger outside the front door, he took me through the exhibitions including the mask collection and videos of festivals, the historical artifacts and implements and the natural history collection. He stayed with me, explained, translated patiently, as needed, until, about 1 hour later, we emerged from the front door, he picked up his charged phone (there was no question it would be there), and proceeded to take me down to Paro town to the Restaurant where a meal had been kept for us. We had the same great selection of tasty dishes as always, except it was after 5 pm. In the end everyone was happily accommodated. This is Bhutan for you.
In April this year I travelled to Bhutan with Rare Air Himalayan Travel and was introduced to an incredible country and an experience I will always treasure.
Along with leader, Karen, whose love and fascination with Bhutan is palpable, and three other adventurous women from my walking club, we embarked on a discovery of Bhutan.
Our guides, Namgyel and Tashi welcomed us like family and throughout our travels cared for and guided us, sharing their immense knowledge of their amazing country with great pride and joy.
Bhutan has many epic high passes and ever-changing scenery with amazing forests, valleys and rivers. There were so many interesting moments, discovering the many beautiful wildflowers along the trails, hiking through remarkable forests like the rhododendron forest, descending into farmlands of crops and animals and walking along pristine rivers with wonderful mountainous views. The landscape is diverse and captivating.
We criss-crossed mountains, on roads that seemed impassable, often with cows, buffaloes and dogs freely roaming. The Bhutanese drive respectfully, slowly and cautiously, and our driver, Changala, made us feel safe and assured on our journey.
Bhutan has deep-rooted Buddhist culture and the temples, stupas, museums and architecture are an integral part of Bhutan's cultural and administrative landscape. Steeped in history and mystical legends, it was captivating to hear the many mystical tales which continue today.
Our accommodation, at the end of each day, did not disappoint, it was always welcoming and comfortable. A highlight was our homestay at the small village of Khoma, known for its fine handwoven textiles, it was unforgettable, the hospitality shown to us was heart-warming. Song and dance welcomed us, Bhutanese dinner cooked and shared by the villagers and after dinner, we were strongly coaxed into sampling the obligatory national drink of Ara, served straight from the cooking pot!
Lunch and dinners usually commenced with a heart-warming soup followed by dishes consisting of meat, chicken or fish and a variety of fresh local vegetables; healthy, satisfying and filling for an adventurous group.
Bhutan is a carbon-negative country, 70% lush forest; it generates greater oxygen than it consumes. Plastic bags are banned in Bhutan and respecting this, we chose to engage in sustainable practices and not purchase plastic water bottles or any throw-a-way containers throughout the trip.
The Bhutanese are happy and courteous people who have a strong sense of national pride. It was a privilege to discover and learn about this mystical country, it is very safe to visit and unspoilt by tourism. I may be back!
Bhutan is one of the most amazing and beautiful countries that I have visited. The people are so proud of their country, culture and Royal family and enjoy talking to you about all this. Hiking through this country, one experiences a different tourist experience. Meeting the locals along the way, eating at home stays and slowing down to the Bhutanese way of life is something that needs to be experienced to understand.
When not walking, driving at 40 km’s around this mountainous country, one stops continually to view amazing vistas and cultural events. This is all achieved with the professionalism of Rare Air Himalayan Travel. Karen has a great love of this area and shows this through her organisation and the tours she presents. The tour guides and drivers she employs are special people who cater for your every need, including the change of itineraries if the group desires. Nothing is too hard for them.
Bhutan truly is the happiest place on earth and to visit this with Rare Air Himalayan Travel is a wonderful experience.
Bhutan is one of the most amazing and beautiful countries that I have visited. The people are so proud of their country, culture and royal family and enjoy talking to you about all this. Hiking through this country, one experiences a different tourist experience. Meeting the locals along the way, eating at home stays and slowing down to the Bhutanese way of life is something that needs to be experienced to understand.
When not walking, driving at 40 km’s around this mountainous country, one stops continually to view amazing vistas and cultural events. This is all achieved with the professionalism of Rare Air Himalayan Travel. Karen has a great love of this area and shows this through her organisation and the tours she presents. The tour guides and drivers she employs are special people who cater for your every need, including the change of itineraries if the group desires. Nothing is too hard for them.
Bhutan truly is the happiest place on earth and to visit this with Rare Air Himalayan Travel is a wonderful experience.
This picture captures the joy and openness of the people of Bhutan. Despite living in some challenging conditions and the constant physical demands, the Bhutanese people carry themselves with such grace and serenity that it seems to rub off on everyone. At least, this was my experience and I found it extraordinary. As though peace and happiness could permeate the air we breathe! Before you know it, you are feeling peaceful and happy. Along with the gorgeous scenery, wonderful accommodation and surprisingly delicious food, what more could a traveller ask for?
Expectations of an amazing welcome to Bhutan were truly met; from the aeroplane window seat (Karen, thank-you for the tip) view of the Himalayan mountain range to the International airport approach at Paro - 2,200m altitude (international airport – think size of Launceston airport without the spectacular mountain range) to our guides, Namgyel & Tashi, welcoming us at the airport presenting each of us with a white scarf – a Buddhist welcome of honour and respect.
Discussed during lunch, as we will discover mainly vegetarian and beautifully fresh produce, our driver Changala took us to the 52 metre buddha (world’s largest seated statue at 2700m) for the beginning of a short, introductory afternoon walk descending through predominantly cypress forests. Very pleasant introduction to 15 days of walking through villages at the base of the Himalayas with our excellent guides leading the way and ensuring a hot cuppa & biscuits for morning tea and/or providing us with a prepared lunch package in impressive reusable, light containers.
The experience of hiking the midlands of Bhutan, from high passes such as Dochu La at 3100m walking along ancient trails – Lumitsawa Trail, amongst aged rhododendron forests, magnolias, cypress, fir dripping with Old Man’s Beard (I’ve always known it as Spanish Moss) daphne, fuchsias and primulas listening to cuckoos and thrushes made me feel I was walking through an enchanted forest.
Culturally, to be welcomed to walk through subsistence farming villages of rice paddies and vegetable terraces, hothouses, dry stone walls, fencing utilising felled unsawn trees, transient yak herders living in huts and the amazing use of the strength of bamboo for building scaffolding provided a calming influence during our journey.
To have been given the privilege to spend a night at a homestay in a far-Eastern village beknown for their beautiful hand-woven fabrics and hosted by generous, proud village women and community with their food and welcome dances was a highlight for me. Most villages have a temple or chorten and Tashi was patient explaining the Buddhist culture and significance of their deities and symbolism, during our visits.
The Bhutanese people presented as calm, proud people and then more I experienced along the midlands of this country, the more I wanted to learn.
Thank you Karen for providing the opportunity and encouragement to explore a country you love.
I chose Rae Air Himalayan Travel because I was looking for a unique experience and they offered a good balance between day hikes and cultural experiences. I also liked that this travel company complimented Bhutan’s policy to be an eco-destination supporting sustainable practices such as not using bottled water and eating in authentic restaurants.
Our guides were very knowledgeable of Bhutan’s rich history, spoke excellent English and had a great sense of humour. Our itinerary was flexible and adjusted accordingly - we had the added bonus of doing some extra hikes on our trip. The walks had magnificent views of mountains and undulating terrains. My favourite hikes included Panorama Trail in the Haa Valley and the walk from Phobjikha Valley to Longtey, the later included an extended section through a native rhododendron forest.
A highlight of the trip was when my guides asked if there was anything in particular, I would want to do or see to make this trip memorable. My request was to see a yak in its natural environment and not in a reserve. To all our surprise we then drove around the next corner and found a yak strolling along the side of the road. The guides laughed and said: "You ask, we deliver!"
The guides understood my passion to shoot unique images of Bhutan and gave me time to get the right image. Walking the snow-covered trails in Bhutan was such a unique experience.
My visit to Bhutan proved a magical experience, thanks to our tour guide Karen, who led a group of eleven women from our walking club to Bhutan. We were enthralled with many fabulous experiences including attending special festivals, visiting ancient temples and meeting the Bhutanese people.
Nothing was too much for Karen as we set out on a six-day trek high into the mountains. Her endless energy and passion for guiding people was demonstrated as we toiled onward and upward into the high mountains. Karen's care and consideration for all group members was apparent at all times. At last, some days later we reached our goal of Jomolhari (!!!) our group had all reached 4500 m point. Such was the highlight of our mountain trek.
Thanks to our fantastic guide Karen who made Bhutan for me a lifetime of memories.
In early January 2020, Victoria was cloaked in bushfire smoke and there were extreme temperatures. It was gratifying to board the flight, initially Melbourne to Singapore, then Singapore to Bhutan. Arriving on 9 January 2020.
As the plane's wings dipped, there was a mesmerizing panorama of cloud and the Himalayas, endless jagged rocky spurs and mountains shrouded in ice and glowing in the sunlight.
It was fascinating to walk down the street from the airport accompanied by a lone cow with long horns meandering along nonchalantly, and this was typical of Bhutan.
The following days involved a panorama of travel, forests, both oak and rainforest and conifers, and was always in the background the stunning backdrop of the Himalayas.
Our guides were delightful, as was our accommodation and provision of beautiful organic Bhutanese food.
The peace was overwhelming, with many overtones of spirituality, not only having regard to the elevation, but also the culture and the many stupas and temples, and sections of prayer flags.
Whilst it was winter, we had bright blue skies for much of the time and also, when in the Haa Valley, heavy snowfalls.
It was fascinating to see waterfalls frozen in mid flow, endless vista, many yaks, tiny almost prehistoric horses used for transport, and to sample the national dish chill cheese.
On our last day we had massage and hot stone baths followed by a traditional Bhutanese meal in a farmhouse owned by relatives of our guides. What a way to finish.
We came back refreshed and calm and happy to Singapore airport on 1 February 2020 to encounter people everywhere wearing masks. It was at this stage that we learned that there was reputedly a pandemic, owing to a disease caused by wild bats, which was affecting the world. We had had no news whilst in Bhutan and that was one of the best parts.
I would recommend Bhutan as a destination for walking/rest/spirituality/hospitality overwhelmingly.
